Modifikasi Flasher Lampu Sein LED

Seminggu ini berusaha me-LED-kan semua lampu (kecuali lampu utama). Berguna untuk meringankan kerja aki dan alternator, :)

Seperti biasa, tak sulit, hanya tinggal ‘plug-n-play’. Lampu rem, lampu senja, semua jadi memiliki watt yang kecil.

(saya lihat spek dari lampu stock-nya adalah 24 watt untuk satu lampu rem saja, waduh berarti satu lampu menghabiskan dua ampere!)

Seperti biasa juga, ada masalah. Kedipan lampu sein jadi lebih cepat karena flasher dirancang untuk dialiri arus yang besar. Flasher memang dirancang sedemikian sehingga jika ada lampu sein yang putus maka kedipan akan lebih cepat (karena arus yang mengalir lebih kecil) untuk memperingatkan kita agar segera mengganti dengan lampu baru.



Tapi LED kan tahan lama bertahun-tahun.

Saya juga tak begitu memerlukan “fitur peringatan dini” bahwa lampu sein saya putus. Yeah, tak ada peringatan dini untuk lampu rem atau lampu senja putus kan? Kita harus selalu mengecek mereka secara manual.

Nah, fitur ini di-disable saja.

Paling mudah dengan menambahkan resistor 6 Ohm yang dipasang secara paralel dengan LED. Dengan demikian arus yang mengalir akan tetap 2 Ampere (LED hanya membutuhkan beberapa miliampere) dan flasher tetap bekerja normal, kedipan lampu sein juga normal, namun plastik batok lampu kita akan bisa leleh karena resistor melepaskan banyak panas. (yeah, cara tersebut memang mudah, lampu sein akan menyala terang karena menggunakan LED, namun arus yang mengalir akan tetap, tidak ada penghematan energi dari aki)

Yang efektif adalah dengan mengotak-atik Flashernya.

Caranya,…, DuckDuckGoing,…, dan waduh…

Banyak sekali caranya, tergantung jenis flashernya.

Secara umum, fitur untuk deteksi lampu mati terbuat dari resistor yang berbentuk kawat lengkung.

Jika flasher kita seperti ini, tinggal diamplas saja kawat lengkungnya sedikit, pasang lagi, cek, jika kedipan kurang lambat, amplas lagi, cek lagi, … dst.

Jika tidak ada resistor berbentuk kawat maka cari resistor bernama R1 kemudian ganti dengan resistor bernilai 1M Ohm. Jika Flashernya menggunaka IC, potong sambungan di kaki IC nomor 7, …. (dan banyak lagi hasil DuckDuckGo yang lain)

Saya punya dua flasher, dengan nomor kode komponen yang sama, 81980-22070, namun ketika saya buka ternyata sangat beda sekali. Satu memiliki Resistor lengkung (yeah…) dan satunya hanya terdiri dari rangkaian resistor, dioda, kapasitor dan transistor.

Cara paling mudah sebenarnya adalah dengan mengamplas Flasher saya yang punya resistor model kawat. Namun cara demikian kurang cocok bagi saya karena jika suatu saat saya ingin mengganti lagi LED dengan lampu stock maka kedipan akan jadi sangat lama atau malah tidak berkedip sama sekali.

Akhirnya saya otak-atik flasher kedua. Ganti R1 dengan resistor 1M Ohm dan,…., gagal…

Ada forum lain yang mengatakan R2 yang diganti, ok, coba lagi dan gagal, ….

Penasaran, saya balik PCB-nya, urut rangkaiannya

Tidak sulit karena tidak ada IC-nya, ini hanya semacam timer sederhana. Timer semacam ini waktunya ditentukan oleh kapasitor dan resistor yang terhubung seri sehingga saya hanya perlu cari resistor yang seperti itu dan ternyata ketemu dua yang semacam itu!

Yang satu pastilah untuk kedipan normal, yang satu untuk kedipan cepat, disable saja untuk yang kedipan cepat, yaitu yang terangkai seri dengan kapasitor yang bernilai kecil

(dalam hal ini ternyata resistor dengan label R5 yang harus saya copot, bisa disambung dengan resistor 1M Ohm atau dibiarkan copot saja)


Tes, ganti semua lampu sein kanan dengan LED, waktu kedipan ternyata sama dengan yang kiri. OK, ganti semuanya dengan LED, :)


(lampu sein = sen = reting = riting = liting, tergantung kebiasaan menyebut di masing-masing daerah, :)  )

Modified LED Turn Signal Light Flasher

This week I tried to light all the lights (except the main lights). Useful to ease the work of batteries and alternators, :)

As usual, it's not difficult, just stay 'plug-n-play'. Brake lights, dusk lights, all have a small wattage.

(I see the spec from the stock light is 24 watts for just one brake light, it means that one lamp consumes two amperes!)

As always, there is a problem. Turn on the turn signal is faster because the flasher is designed to flow large currents. Flasher is designed so that if there is a broken turn signal, the flicker will be faster (due to smaller flowing currents) to warn us to immediately replace it with a new lamp.

But LEDs last a long time.

I also don't really need the "early warning feature" that my turn signal breaks. Yeah, there's no early warning for the brake lights or the dusk lights right? We must always check them manually.

Well, this feature is disabled only.

It's easiest to add a 6 Ohm resistor installed in parallel with the LED. Thus the current flowing will remain 2 Ampere (LEDs only need a few milliamperes) and the flasher will still work normally, the flashing of the turn signal is also normal, but our light shell plastic will melt because the resistor releases a lot of heat. (yeah, this method is easy, the turn signal lights up brightly because it uses LEDs, but the current flowing will remain, there is no energy savings from the battery)

What is effective is by tinkering with the Flasher.

The trick, ..., DuckDuckGoing, ..., and oh my ...

There are lots of ways, depending on the type of flasher.

In general, the feature for detection of dead lights is made of resistors in the form of curved wire.

If our flasher is like this, just sand the curved wire a little, plug it in again, check, if it blinks slowly, sandpaper again, check again, etc.

If there is no wire-shaped resistor, look for a resistor named R1 then replace it with a resistor worth 1M Ohm. If the Flasher uses IC, cut the connection at the foot of IC number 7, ... (and many other DuckDuckGo results)

I have two flasher, with the same component code number, 81980-22070, but when I open it it is very different. One has a curved resistor (yeah ...) and the other only consists of a series of resistors, diodes, capacitors and transistors.

The easiest way is actually to sand my Flasher which has a wire model resistor. However, this method is not suitable for me because if one day I want to replace the LED with the stock lights, the flashing will be very long or not even blink at all.

Finally I tweaked the second flasher. Replace R1 with a 1M Ohm resistor and, ..., fail ...

There is another forum that says R2 is replaced, ok, try again and fail, ...

Intrigued, I flipped to look the back of the circuit board, manually routing the sequence with my finger.

It's not difficult because there's no IC, it's just a simple timer. This kind of timer is determined by a series of capacitors and resistors so I only need to find a resistor like that and it turns out that I found two of them!

One must be for normal blinking, one for fast blinking, just disable it for the fast blinking, which is coupled with a series of small-value capacitors

(in this case it turns out that the resistor with the R5 label that I have to dislodge, can be connected with a 1M Ohm resistor or just left  it open/disconnected)


Test, replace all the right turn signal with the LED, the flashing time is the same as the left one. OK, replace everything with LED, done, :)

Fuel Injection Flooded Engine

Yes, it's possible, it's rare though, so you should be grateful if get it (like me), :)  

When the engine is cold 

• Depress the accelerator fully and hold it. 
• While holding accelerator fully depressed, turn the ignition switch to the START(III) position and hold it (a maximum of 10 seconds; cranking) to discharge the excess fuel. If the engine starts, the engine speed will increase suddenly; release the key and the accelerator immediately. In this case, the following steps are not necessary. 
• Release the accelerator after cranking the engine. 
• Without depressing the accelerator, crank the engine until it starts (a maximum of 10 seconds). 

When the engine is warm — depress the accelerator about halfway to start it.

ups..., and do not keep the starter engaged for more than 10 seconds. If the engine stalls or fails to start, wait 5 to 10 seconds before reengaging the starter; otherwise, you may damage it.

(from manual book of My Mazda 323F Astina)

PCV Valve and Throttle Position Sensor on My 323F Astina

Drove it with broken PCV and TPS socket unplugged for straight two years without major problem

At least, my luck is gradually wornout

The symptoms began the moment I change the broken PCV valve.

After replaced the old broken PCV valve and installed the new one, there's no change at idle.

Another story when I stepped on throttle pedal, the engine is getting hesitant and the rpm didn't rise smoothly and it had tendency to not rise at all.


Hmm, if broken PCV valve and unplugged TPS proved okay, whilst new PCV valve and unplugged TPS result in trouble, then combination of new PCV valve and plugged TPS maybe solving the problem.

The result is I have low idle rpm, so far so good, and I stomped the throttle pedal, the rpm is increasing smoothly, this getting better and better until rpm reach 3000 and suddenly drop to 1000, ...

I press and hold the throttle pedal, hoping it can reach beyond 3000, to no avail. It drop every time it reach 3000 point.

Here, almost without doubt that the TPS is the trouble maker. Almost, since the idle setting and other setting is done with the TPS unplugged, so maybe my engine have wrong setup since begining, still...

Checked TPS with OhmMeter, the result is fine, no problem.

Checked TPS socket (cable to ECU) using voltmeter, the signal is OK, so the TPS isn't the problem.

My TPS is the switch-type-TPS (from many online source including discussion in Mazda Astina Indonesia ), in opposite to potentiometer-type. So it has three switch position mode. (look at the first pic)

Let us name three connector cable in TPS with A, B and C. The first position is when idle, without step on the throttle pedal, A and B is connected. (second pic)

The second position is when we slightly open throttle; A, B and C is connected together. (third pic)

Finally while we are on full throttle, B and C is connected. (4th pic)

I don't really know, maybe because my "exotic" setup since beginning, my 323F couldn't get right rpm while TPS is plugged, so I manually checked by bypassing it function using jumper.

Bypassing A and B through jumper resulted in erratic rpm, it oscilating from 1000 to 3000, ....., ups..., the throttle cable is stuck, make it right...., ok, rpm at idle is 1000, step the throttle, and...., still drop at 3000, duh....

The same with A, B and C connected together.

Don't have a choice, bypassing B and C and... Idle is 1000, step the pedal, it raise smoothly to 3000 and 3500, 4000 and so on..., huray...

Stick with this setting until now, :)

Tutup Radiator dan Reservoir

Barang kecil dan murah namun jika rusak dan tidak segera diganti akan jadi mahal, karena harus ganti radiator atau malah ganti mesin.

Hal yang terjadi jika tutup radiator rusak:

-radiator tidak dapat mempertahankan tekanan di dalam radiator; seharusnya lebih tinggi dari udara luar. Tekanan yang lebih tinggi menyebabkan titik didih coolant/air radiator juga tinggi sehingga pertukaran panas lebih efektif. Kalo fungsi ini gagal, air radiator akan mendidih di suhu 100 atau di bawahnya; pertukaran panas tidak efektif. 

Karena mendidih (dan tentu saja menguap), maka air radiator akan cepat habis

Hal lain yang terjadi jika tutup radiator rusak, air radiator akan keluar menuju reservoir saat panas (hal yang normal, karena air volumenya bertambah saat panas) namun tidak mau kembali ke radiator saat dingin karena tidak diijinkan oleh klep di tutup radiator; air radiator akan berkurang (dan air di reservoir akan bertambah banyak bahkan sampai tumpah). Normalnya air di reservoir akan kembali ke radiator setelah mesin dingin, sehingga volume air di dalam radiator tetap.

Hal lain yang kadang lolos dari perhatian adalah selang di tutup reservoir yang masuk ke dalam reservoir. Jika selang ini longgar, maka udara akan ikut masuk saat radiator menyedot air kembali ke radiator sehingga jika dicek, air radiator akan berkurang meskipun air di reservoir masih ada (bahkan sampai tumpah)