Move Object using ActionScript on Flash

Sensor Analog di Arduino, dengan monitor via bluetooth

KProgram ini digunakan untuk melihat nilai sensor (berupa tegangan) di port analog 0 (A0) di ATMega328.

Di sini sensor diwakili oleh potensiometer yang kaki tepinya masing-masing dihubungkan ke vcc dan ground, kaki tengah dihubungkan ke port analog 0.

Microcontroler membaca port analog 0 yang nilainya kemudian dikirimkan secara serial via bluetooth, juga untuk menyalakan empat led sesuai dengan nilai pembacaan sensor.

Karena ATMega328 memliliki resolusi pembacaan analog sebesar 10-bit, maka led diset sedemikian sehingga led 1 menyala jika nilai kurang dari 255, led 1 dan 2 menyala jika nilai sensor antara 255 dan 512, dst.

Sebagai tambahan, perintah yang digunakan untuk menyalakan led adalah analogWrite() bukan digitalWrite() sehingga meski nilai sensor kurang dari 255, kita masih bisa membedakan levelnya dengan tingkat redup-terangnya led pertama (0 mati, 50 redup, 255 nyala terang).





I also use it to blink led without delay, fade without delay, write to serial via Bluetooth module (HC-05) AND USB-to-TTL.

Notice that I have two TX and two RX, the default pin (0 and 1) for usb communication (upload sketch and debugging), the software serial TX,RX (pin 8 and 7) is used for bluetooth communication.

Here the code.  I use some function to isolate some group of commands for easy debugging.

#include <softwareserial .h>

SoftwareSerial mySerial(8, 7); // RX, TX

int led = LOW;        
int dterang = 5;
int terang = 11;
unsigned long t0 = 0;
const long dt = 1000;       

void setup() {
  setupSerial();
  pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
 
}

void loop() {
  fadeLed(5);
  blinkNoD(13);
  adcToLed(0);
  bacaAnalog(0);
  delay(100);
}

void adcToLed(int pin){//3,9,10,11
  int nilai = analogRead(pin);
  int sisa = nilai % 256;
  if (nilai<256 data-blogger-escaped--1="" data-blogger-escaped-512="" data-blogger-escaped-768="" data-blogger-escaped-analogwrite="" data-blogger-escaped-dterang="" data-blogger-escaped-else="" data-blogger-escaped-fadeled="" data-blogger-escaped-if="" data-blogger-escaped-int="" data-blogger-escaped-nilai="" data-blogger-escaped-pin="" data-blogger-escaped-sisa="" data-blogger-escaped-terang="" data-blogger-escaped-void="">=255 ){
    terang = 255;
    dterang *= -1;
  }
  analogWrite(pin, terang);
}

void blinkNoD(int pin) {
  unsigned long t = millis();
  if(t - t0 >= dt) {
    t0 = t;
    led=!led;   
    digitalWrite(pin, led);
  }
} 

void bacaAnalog(int pin) {
  int sensor = analogRead(pin);
  mySerial.print("Pin ");
  mySerial.print(pin);
  mySerial.print(" bernilai ");
  mySerial.println(sensor);
  Serial.println("Output dilewatkan port serial via bluetooth");
  delay(10);    
}

void setupSerial(){
  Serial.begin(9600);
  Serial.println("Hello, world? Ini kabel");
  mySerial.begin(9600);
  mySerial.println("Hello, world? Ini bluetooth");
}
/*
PWM: 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11. 
PI: 10 (SS), 11 (MOSI), 12 (MISO), 13 (SCK)
Serial: 0 (RX) and 1 (TX)
*/

.

Arduino with HC05 Bluetooth Module on OS X Yosemite

Got HC05 Bluetooth Module last Saturday at electronic store, connect it with my Arduino Pro Mini (ATMega 328 based) the usual way: tx—rx, rx—tx, vcc—5v and ground—0v. Powered it on alongside the Pro Mini. The led indicator blinked, good sign, :)

Pairing with my Mac is easy, but make sure the pairing code is 1234, mac use 0000 as default code. If paired successfully the led blink pattern will change. 

Open the serial monitor and, nothing appeared, :(

Maybe the IDE busy so I open the OS X terminal and access using screen:

$screen /dev/cu.HC-05-DevB 

Still nothing happened. 

Unplug all the cable, plug it again. And yup, there’s serial output (using Arduino IDE serial monitor or screen command on terminal )

I have a Mac with Yosemite.

Apparently, most of my problem with arduino board is loose cable connection, :)

Arduino Pro Mini (ATMega 328 Based), my New Toy

I saw it at electronic part shop while shopping for my DIY guitar preamp part. It based in ATMega 328 and it waking up my years-sleeping microcontroller spirit :D

I always love assembly language, I have several project on ATMega based microcontroller as programmer but it's just that. I just love programming without bothered by hardware, minsys or whatnot.

It's true that arduino language is not asm; it's simplified C. But it come in package, I just have to program it and it'll work. It's the closest thing I got to hardware related interface, for now (I still have a plan that some day I'll master both microcontroller hardware and software interfacing :) )

Anyway, I bought this Arduino Pro Mini and an USB to TTL module.

It just my luck that I bought that PL2303HX module and not Sparkfun breakout board or FTDI connector as my Arduino Pro Mini  layout is totally different; it has same dimension as original but the hole for pins is different (it has more hole than the original). The breakout board probably won't match and maybe useless (I don't konw about FTDI). So I think the pl2303hx usb to ttl usb-stc-isp is my best shot.

My luck, or probably not, it means my Arduino Pro mini is the clone, :)

I download Arduino IDE for my MacBook Air with OS X Yosemite. 

Install it, there's no problem as I changed my macbook setting on software installer permission (set to ANY)

Ran the IDE, use the example code, blinking LED.

compile it, OK

Upload it, this error message appear:

Arduino: 1.6.2 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini, ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)"

Sketch uses 1,068 bytes (3%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30,720 bytes.

Global variables use 11 bytes (0%) of dynamic memory, leaving 2,037 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2,048 bytes.

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

Problem uploading to board.  See http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#upload for suggestions.

  This report would have more information with

  "Show verbose output during compilation"

  enabled in File > Preferences.

Install FTDI drivers, not work, obviously because I don't use it.8

try it in my Linux Debian machine (after install it via sudo apt-get install arduino command), success

back to mac, success too, strange

After several success and error upload, it turned out that my tx rx connection is not thigh enough, heheh...

The pictures below made after I secure the connection by permanently solder it. Not my actual plan because initially I prefer it in plug and play form.

Some note

Make sure that PL2303HX and Arduino have this connection right

Vcc to 5V

GND to GND

TX to RX

RX to TX

Before clicking upload button on IDE, we have to press and hold reset button on Arduino board and release about one second after it (or after console displaying message: 'sketch size...').

I've found new kind of error like this

Arduino: 1.6.2 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini, ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)"

Sketch uses 4,480 bytes (14%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30,720 bytes.

Global variables use 216 bytes (10%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1,832 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2,048 bytes.

avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device "/dev/cu.usbserial": Resource busy

ioctl("TIOCMGET"): Inappropriate ioctl for device

Problem uploading to board.  See http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#upload for suggestions.

  This report would have more information with

  "Show verbose output during compilation"

  enabled in File > Preferences.

It happened when I open serial monitor using Terminal apps on OS X and trying to upload the sketch while it running command

$ screen /dev/cu.usbserial

or 

$screen /dev/cu.HC-05-DevB

We have to close it first (not just detach) using command

$<ctrl>-a-\

and all is well, :)

DIY Guitar PreAmp (or Distortion StompBox) using TL 074

My string acoustic-electric guitar is borrowed and not back, leave my classic nylon string Yamaha guitar and an Ibanez clone with is by itself stand at the opposite pole of my need (rock/metal amplified sound or warm natural classic).

I need something between that and decide to install piezo on my classic nylon string. It pretty straightforward, just need few minutes. The problem is when i plugged it on my amp, it has almost no sound. I have to crank the volume knob all the way up to hear 'normal' level volume. It need pre-amplifier.


I uninstalled the piezzo (what I'm thinking at that moment, :D ) and using my Ibanez clone as testing guitar, with normal jack and all.

here the schematic

It Occured to me that this Pre-Amp could act as Distortion effect if we set the gain super high. I do it by add a resistor parallel to 100k. And the sound is suddenly very different. It's very clipped and distorted yet there's something missing (for me). I like soft clipping. So I plan to tinkering with some resistor value or add potentiometer to it

If we don't want distortion, just louder gain, we could always using two stage preamp (I don't know the proper name of it)

Modifikasi Flasher Lampu Sein LED

Seminggu ini berusaha me-LED-kan semua lampu (kecuali lampu utama). Berguna untuk meringankan kerja aki dan alternator, :)

Seperti biasa, tak sulit, hanya tinggal ‘plug-n-play’. Lampu rem, lampu senja, semua jadi memiliki watt yang kecil.

(saya lihat spek dari lampu stock-nya adalah 24 watt untuk satu lampu rem saja, waduh berarti satu lampu menghabiskan dua ampere!)

Seperti biasa juga, ada masalah. Kedipan lampu sein jadi lebih cepat karena flasher dirancang untuk dialiri arus yang besar. Flasher memang dirancang sedemikian sehingga jika ada lampu sein yang putus maka kedipan akan lebih cepat (karena arus yang mengalir lebih kecil) untuk memperingatkan kita agar segera mengganti dengan lampu baru.



Tapi LED kan tahan lama bertahun-tahun.

Saya juga tak begitu memerlukan “fitur peringatan dini” bahwa lampu sein saya putus. Yeah, tak ada peringatan dini untuk lampu rem atau lampu senja putus kan? Kita harus selalu mengecek mereka secara manual.

Nah, fitur ini di-disable saja.

Paling mudah dengan menambahkan resistor 6 Ohm yang dipasang secara paralel dengan LED. Dengan demikian arus yang mengalir akan tetap 2 Ampere (LED hanya membutuhkan beberapa miliampere) dan flasher tetap bekerja normal, kedipan lampu sein juga normal, namun plastik batok lampu kita akan bisa leleh karena resistor melepaskan banyak panas. (yeah, cara tersebut memang mudah, lampu sein akan menyala terang karena menggunakan LED, namun arus yang mengalir akan tetap, tidak ada penghematan energi dari aki)

Yang efektif adalah dengan mengotak-atik Flashernya.

Caranya,…, DuckDuckGoing,…, dan waduh…

Banyak sekali caranya, tergantung jenis flashernya.

Secara umum, fitur untuk deteksi lampu mati terbuat dari resistor yang berbentuk kawat lengkung.

Jika flasher kita seperti ini, tinggal diamplas saja kawat lengkungnya sedikit, pasang lagi, cek, jika kedipan kurang lambat, amplas lagi, cek lagi, … dst.

Jika tidak ada resistor berbentuk kawat maka cari resistor bernama R1 kemudian ganti dengan resistor bernilai 1M Ohm. Jika Flashernya menggunaka IC, potong sambungan di kaki IC nomor 7, …. (dan banyak lagi hasil DuckDuckGo yang lain)

Saya punya dua flasher, dengan nomor kode komponen yang sama, 81980-22070, namun ketika saya buka ternyata sangat beda sekali. Satu memiliki Resistor lengkung (yeah…) dan satunya hanya terdiri dari rangkaian resistor, dioda, kapasitor dan transistor.

Cara paling mudah sebenarnya adalah dengan mengamplas Flasher saya yang punya resistor model kawat. Namun cara demikian kurang cocok bagi saya karena jika suatu saat saya ingin mengganti lagi LED dengan lampu stock maka kedipan akan jadi sangat lama atau malah tidak berkedip sama sekali.

Akhirnya saya otak-atik flasher kedua. Ganti R1 dengan resistor 1M Ohm dan,…., gagal…

Ada forum lain yang mengatakan R2 yang diganti, ok, coba lagi dan gagal, ….

Penasaran, saya balik PCB-nya, urut rangkaiannya

Tidak sulit karena tidak ada IC-nya, ini hanya semacam timer sederhana. Timer semacam ini waktunya ditentukan oleh kapasitor dan resistor yang terhubung seri sehingga saya hanya perlu cari resistor yang seperti itu dan ternyata ketemu dua yang semacam itu!

Yang satu pastilah untuk kedipan normal, yang satu untuk kedipan cepat, disable saja untuk yang kedipan cepat, yaitu yang terangkai seri dengan kapasitor yang bernilai kecil

(dalam hal ini ternyata resistor dengan label R5 yang harus saya copot, bisa disambung dengan resistor 1M Ohm atau dibiarkan copot saja)


Tes, ganti semua lampu sein kanan dengan LED, waktu kedipan ternyata sama dengan yang kiri. OK, ganti semuanya dengan LED, :)


(lampu sein = sen = reting = riting = liting, tergantung kebiasaan menyebut di masing-masing daerah, :)  )

Modified LED Turn Signal Light Flasher

This week I tried to light all the lights (except the main lights). Useful to ease the work of batteries and alternators, :)

As usual, it's not difficult, just stay 'plug-n-play'. Brake lights, dusk lights, all have a small wattage.

(I see the spec from the stock light is 24 watts for just one brake light, it means that one lamp consumes two amperes!)

As always, there is a problem. Turn on the turn signal is faster because the flasher is designed to flow large currents. Flasher is designed so that if there is a broken turn signal, the flicker will be faster (due to smaller flowing currents) to warn us to immediately replace it with a new lamp.

But LEDs last a long time.

I also don't really need the "early warning feature" that my turn signal breaks. Yeah, there's no early warning for the brake lights or the dusk lights right? We must always check them manually.

Well, this feature is disabled only.

It's easiest to add a 6 Ohm resistor installed in parallel with the LED. Thus the current flowing will remain 2 Ampere (LEDs only need a few milliamperes) and the flasher will still work normally, the flashing of the turn signal is also normal, but our light shell plastic will melt because the resistor releases a lot of heat. (yeah, this method is easy, the turn signal lights up brightly because it uses LEDs, but the current flowing will remain, there is no energy savings from the battery)

What is effective is by tinkering with the Flasher.

The trick, ..., DuckDuckGoing, ..., and oh my ...

There are lots of ways, depending on the type of flasher.

In general, the feature for detection of dead lights is made of resistors in the form of curved wire.

If our flasher is like this, just sand the curved wire a little, plug it in again, check, if it blinks slowly, sandpaper again, check again, etc.

If there is no wire-shaped resistor, look for a resistor named R1 then replace it with a resistor worth 1M Ohm. If the Flasher uses IC, cut the connection at the foot of IC number 7, ... (and many other DuckDuckGo results)

I have two flasher, with the same component code number, 81980-22070, but when I open it it is very different. One has a curved resistor (yeah ...) and the other only consists of a series of resistors, diodes, capacitors and transistors.

The easiest way is actually to sand my Flasher which has a wire model resistor. However, this method is not suitable for me because if one day I want to replace the LED with the stock lights, the flashing will be very long or not even blink at all.

Finally I tweaked the second flasher. Replace R1 with a 1M Ohm resistor and, ..., fail ...

There is another forum that says R2 is replaced, ok, try again and fail, ...

Intrigued, I flipped to look the back of the circuit board, manually routing the sequence with my finger.

It's not difficult because there's no IC, it's just a simple timer. This kind of timer is determined by a series of capacitors and resistors so I only need to find a resistor like that and it turns out that I found two of them!

One must be for normal blinking, one for fast blinking, just disable it for the fast blinking, which is coupled with a series of small-value capacitors

(in this case it turns out that the resistor with the R5 label that I have to dislodge, can be connected with a 1M Ohm resistor or just left  it open/disconnected)


Test, replace all the right turn signal with the LED, the flashing time is the same as the left one. OK, replace everything with LED, done, :)

Scripting in SwishMax

The movies below's result of my tinkering with SwishMax this morning; consist of me abusing the script to force the project done in just one frame, :)

Moving a Box using Script on SwishMax

Move a Box by a Click of Button on SwishMax

Increasing the Width of a Box using Script on SwishMax

Toggling the Move Direction of a Box using Script on SwishMax

Control the Speed (using Text Input) of a Box Moved by Script on SwishMax