Scrolling LCD 16x2 First Row Only

 It's tricky but not impossible

 All I have to do is update the cursor position of second row so it seems still. :)





#include <SoftwareSerial.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal.h>

SoftwareSerial mySerial(8, 9); // RX, TX
int t=1;
int i=1;
LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);//rs e d4 d5 d6 d7
String tulisan = "Tadaa..., heheh...., hihihi :)";
String info =":)";
void setup() {
  pinMode(7,INPUT);
  pinMode(6,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(10,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(13,OUTPUT);
  lcd.begin(16, 2);
  lcd.print(tulisan);
  mySerial.begin(9600);
  delay(1000);
}


void loop() {
  //lcd.clear();
  if (digitalRead(7)==1){
    digitalWrite(10,HIGH);
  }else{
    digitalWrite(10,LOW);
  }
  if (mySerial.available()){
    digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
    while(mySerial.available()>0){
      tulisan=mySerial.readString();
      mySerial.println(tulisan);
    }
  }
  lcd.setCursor(1,0);
  lcd.print(tulisan);
  //scroll first row if text length's beyond 16
  int l= tulisan.length()-12;
  info ="P7=";
  info+=digitalRead(7);
  info+=",l=";
  info+=tulisan.length();
  lcd.setCursor(t,1);
  lcd.print(info);
  digitalWrite(13,LOW);
  lcd.scrollDisplayLeft();
  t++;
  if (t>=l){
    t=1;  
    lcd.clear();
  }
  delay(1000);
}
//PWM: 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11

.

Agar output LCD hanya bagian atas saja yang scroll sedangkan yang baris kedua tetap diam.

Triknya adalah memberi LCD perintah scroll seperti biasa di arduino namun kita mengupdate posisi kursor di baris kedua agar tulisan selalu nampak di layar (dalam hal ini adalah string bernama 'info')

Read Digital Pin and Serial Message, Display it on LCD using Arduino

 In addition of my previous tinkering with LCD on arduino nano, I add a chunk of program to display the state of digital pin 7 on second row LCD.

I also remove the scroll command, package it as separate function but not called. I plan to using another scrolling method, some code without delay. (had it in mind, but still lazy to coding it, maybe next)




#include <softwareSerial.h>
#include<liquidCrystal.h>

SoftwareSerial mySerial(8, 9); // RX, TX

LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);//rs e d4 d5 d6 d7
String tulisan = "Tadaa...";
String info =":)";
void setup() {
  pinMode(7,INPUT);
  pinMode(6,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(10,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(13,OUTPUT);
  lcd.begin(16, 2);
  lcd.print(tulisan);
  mySerial.begin(9600);
  delay(1000);
}


void loop() {
  if (digitalRead(7)==1){
    digitalWrite(10,HIGH);
  }else{
    digitalWrite(10,LOW);
  }
  if (mySerial.available()){
    lcd.clear();
    digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
    while(mySerial.available()>0){
      lcd.setCursor(0,0);
      tulisan=mySerial.readString();
      mySerial.println(tulisan);
      lcd.print(tulisan);
    }
  }
  
  //scLeft();
  //scRight();
  //scDef();
  info ="Pin7 = ";
  info+=digitalRead(7);
  
  lcd.setCursor(0,1);
  lcd.print(info);
  digitalWrite(13,LOW);
  delay(1000);
}

void scLeft(){
  for (int i = 0; i < tulisan.length(); i++) {
    lcd.scrollDisplayLeft();
    delay(150);
  }
}

void scRight(){
  for (int i = 0; i < (tulisan.length()+16); i++) {
    lcd.scrollDisplayRight();
    delay(150);
  }
}

void scDef(){
  for (int i = 0; i < 16; i++) {
    lcd.scrollDisplayLeft();
    delay(150);
  }
}
//PWM: 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11

.

Menulis perintah ke baris pertama LCD via bluetooth, baris kedua digunakan untuk mengecek pin 7 (digital). Fitur scrill (di post sebelumnya dihilangkan, ada di bawah sebagai function tetapi tak dipanggil di program utama)

Displaying and Scrolling Text Typed via Serial Monitor on Arduino Nano

 Here we go. The challenge is reading serial data and store it in string, but fortunately there is readString command, :)

(I take the shoot from Photo Booth on my Mac)




#include <LiquidCrystal.h>

.

LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);//rs e d4 d5 d6 d7
String tulisan = "Tadaa...";
void setup() {
  lcd.begin(16, 2);
  lcd.print(tulisan);
  Serial.begin(9600);
  delay(1000);
}

void loop() {
  if (Serial.available()){
    lcd.clear();
    while(Serial.available()>0){
      tulisan=Serial.readString();
      lcd.print(tulisan);
    }
  }
  // scroll 13 positions (string length) to the left
  // to move it offscreen left:
  for (int i = 0; i < tulisan.length(); i++) {
    // scroll one position left:
    lcd.scrollDisplayLeft();
    // wait a bit:
    delay(150);
  }

  // scroll 29 positions (string length + display length) to the right
  // to move it offscreen right:
  for (int i = 0; i < (tulisan.length()+16); i++) {
    // scroll one position right:
    lcd.scrollDisplayRight();
    // wait a bit:
    delay(150);
  }

  // scroll 16 positions (display length + string length) to the left
  // to move it back to center:
  for (int i = 0; i < 16; i++) {
    // scroll one position left:
    lcd.scrollDisplayLeft();
    // wait a bit:
    delay(150);
  }

  // delay at the end of the full loop:
  delay(1000);

}

.

Menampilkan dan men-scroll text yang diketik menggunakan monitor serial di arduino nano.

Tantangannya adalah membaca serial data dan menyimpannya sebagai string. Di versi lama, kita harus membaca komunikai serial sebagai char yang tentu saja sangat merepotkan. Untungnya kita mempunyai perintah readString, :)

Arduino Nano Clone on OS X Yosemite

 After subconsciously try it on my debian machine about a week, now when I have a chance to write on arduino IDE on my Macbook, it wont upload the sketch, no port for nano.

installing FTDI driver didn't help because it use CH340G chip for com.

Grab the driver from http://www.wch.cn/downloads.php?name=pro&proid=178

install it

restart,

no change, :(

found out that we have to run this on terminal

sudo nvram boot-args="kext-dev-mode=1"

reboot,

yup, the life is easier again, :)

Mengirim Perintah ke Arduino Nano via Bluetooth

Menggunakan HC-05

Arduino Nano

Menyalakan LED 13 (blink tanpa delay)

Menyalakan LED 3 dengan mode PWM dengan perintah analogRead, sehingga nyala LED berangsur-angsur dari redup ke terang ke redup lagi (255 tingkat kecerahan).

Menyalakan LED 2 dengan perintah  melalui port serial bluetooth dari Mac OS X.

(program ditulis dan dijalankan di linux Debian)

led pin 3 dapat dinyalakan (setelah microcontroler tersambung dengan komputer via bluetooth) dengan mengetikkan 'nyala' atau 'mati' pada konsole di komputer.




#include <softwareserial .h>

SoftwareSerial hc05(11,12); //RX TX

String baca;

int t=0;
int dt=1;
void setup() {
  hc05.begin(9600);
  hc05.println("Tadaa...");  
  pinMode(13, OUTPUT);   
  pinMode(2, OUTPUT);  
}

void loop() {
  t+=dt;
  //hc05.print("nilai t = ");
  //hc05.println(t);
  while (hc05.available()){
    char c = hc05.read();
    baca += c;
  }
  if(baca.length()>0){
    hc05.println(baca);
    if (baca.indexOf("nyala")>=0){
      digitalWrite(2,HIGH);
    }
    if (baca.indexOf("mati")>=0){
      digitalWrite(2,LOW);
    }
  }

  baca="";
  if(t>=255){
    dt=-1;
    digitalWrite(13, LOW);
  } 
  if(t<=0){
    dt=1;
    digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
  }  
  analogWrite(3,t);
  delay(27);              
  }

.

AngryBird-Like Velocity Changing Using ActionScript on Macromedia Flash 8

Velocity is set by dragging box. Process begin when the press on the box is released.

The 'Pig' animation is triggered whenever hitTest between 'kotak' and 'pigpig' returned true value

Fritzing, One Stop Apps for MicroController

We could write code in it, connecting parts on breadboard (or project-board), auto-route it to schematic and pcb layout (single or double layer).

It has several arduino board ready on parts section

Dengan Fritzing, kita bisa menulis kode mikrocontroler di sini, memasang komponen dan menyambung dengan kabel di project-board, kemudian me-route secara otomatis menjadi skematik seperti di EWB (Electronic Work Bench), routing otomahis juga dilakukan untuk menghasilkan layout PCB seperti di Protel (mendukung single dan double-layer)

Blink Without Delay Problem on Arduino

Well, not for all, but for me it becomes problem while turning led on using analogWrite command, some led just won’t completely shut down.

(Maybe it completely unrelated, but my analog reading on A0 is oscillating, very unstable)



I have the commands packed on a function

unsigned long t0 = 0;
const long dt = 1000;       
void blinkNoD(int pin) {
  unsigned long t = millis();
  if(t - t0 >= dt) {
    t0 = t;
    led=!led;   
    digitalWrite(pin, led);
  }
} 

Since I already have delay in loop, and it really messed with the timing (not mention that maybe the analog reading instability have anything to do with it), I decided to modify the blink code, still without delay command.

unsigned long t0 = 0;
const long dt = 1;       
void blinkNoD(int pin) {
  t0 += dt
  if(t0 >= 4) {
    t0 = 0;
    led=!led;   
    digitalWrite(pin, led);
  }
} 

It turned out that my analogRead instability is another problem, get to work on it, :)

Move Object using ActionScript on Flash

Sensor Analog di Arduino, dengan monitor via bluetooth

KProgram ini digunakan untuk melihat nilai sensor (berupa tegangan) di port analog 0 (A0) di ATMega328.

Di sini sensor diwakili oleh potensiometer yang kaki tepinya masing-masing dihubungkan ke vcc dan ground, kaki tengah dihubungkan ke port analog 0.

Microcontroler membaca port analog 0 yang nilainya kemudian dikirimkan secara serial via bluetooth, juga untuk menyalakan empat led sesuai dengan nilai pembacaan sensor.

Karena ATMega328 memliliki resolusi pembacaan analog sebesar 10-bit, maka led diset sedemikian sehingga led 1 menyala jika nilai kurang dari 255, led 1 dan 2 menyala jika nilai sensor antara 255 dan 512, dst.

Sebagai tambahan, perintah yang digunakan untuk menyalakan led adalah analogWrite() bukan digitalWrite() sehingga meski nilai sensor kurang dari 255, kita masih bisa membedakan levelnya dengan tingkat redup-terangnya led pertama (0 mati, 50 redup, 255 nyala terang).





I also use it to blink led without delay, fade without delay, write to serial via Bluetooth module (HC-05) AND USB-to-TTL.

Notice that I have two TX and two RX, the default pin (0 and 1) for usb communication (upload sketch and debugging), the software serial TX,RX (pin 8 and 7) is used for bluetooth communication.

Here the code.  I use some function to isolate some group of commands for easy debugging.

#include <softwareserial .h>

SoftwareSerial mySerial(8, 7); // RX, TX

int led = LOW;        
int dterang = 5;
int terang = 11;
unsigned long t0 = 0;
const long dt = 1000;       

void setup() {
  setupSerial();
  pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
 
}

void loop() {
  fadeLed(5);
  blinkNoD(13);
  adcToLed(0);
  bacaAnalog(0);
  delay(100);
}

void adcToLed(int pin){//3,9,10,11
  int nilai = analogRead(pin);
  int sisa = nilai % 256;
  if (nilai<256 data-blogger-escaped--1="" data-blogger-escaped-512="" data-blogger-escaped-768="" data-blogger-escaped-analogwrite="" data-blogger-escaped-dterang="" data-blogger-escaped-else="" data-blogger-escaped-fadeled="" data-blogger-escaped-if="" data-blogger-escaped-int="" data-blogger-escaped-nilai="" data-blogger-escaped-pin="" data-blogger-escaped-sisa="" data-blogger-escaped-terang="" data-blogger-escaped-void="">=255 ){
    terang = 255;
    dterang *= -1;
  }
  analogWrite(pin, terang);
}

void blinkNoD(int pin) {
  unsigned long t = millis();
  if(t - t0 >= dt) {
    t0 = t;
    led=!led;   
    digitalWrite(pin, led);
  }
} 

void bacaAnalog(int pin) {
  int sensor = analogRead(pin);
  mySerial.print("Pin ");
  mySerial.print(pin);
  mySerial.print(" bernilai ");
  mySerial.println(sensor);
  Serial.println("Output dilewatkan port serial via bluetooth");
  delay(10);    
}

void setupSerial(){
  Serial.begin(9600);
  Serial.println("Hello, world? Ini kabel");
  mySerial.begin(9600);
  mySerial.println("Hello, world? Ini bluetooth");
}
/*
PWM: 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11. 
PI: 10 (SS), 11 (MOSI), 12 (MISO), 13 (SCK)
Serial: 0 (RX) and 1 (TX)
*/

.

Arduino with HC05 Bluetooth Module on OS X Yosemite

Got HC05 Bluetooth Module last Saturday at electronic store, connect it with my Arduino Pro Mini (ATMega 328 based) the usual way: tx—rx, rx—tx, vcc—5v and ground—0v. Powered it on alongside the Pro Mini. The led indicator blinked, good sign, :)

Pairing with my Mac is easy, but make sure the pairing code is 1234, mac use 0000 as default code. If paired successfully the led blink pattern will change. 

Open the serial monitor and, nothing appeared, :(

Maybe the IDE busy so I open the OS X terminal and access using screen:

$screen /dev/cu.HC-05-DevB 

Still nothing happened. 

Unplug all the cable, plug it again. And yup, there’s serial output (using Arduino IDE serial monitor or screen command on terminal )

I have a Mac with Yosemite.

Apparently, most of my problem with arduino board is loose cable connection, :)

Arduino Pro Mini (ATMega 328 Based), my New Toy

I saw it at electronic part shop while shopping for my DIY guitar preamp part. It based in ATMega 328 and it waking up my years-sleeping microcontroller spirit :D

I always love assembly language, I have several project on ATMega based microcontroller as programmer but it's just that. I just love programming without bothered by hardware, minsys or whatnot.

It's true that arduino language is not asm; it's simplified C. But it come in package, I just have to program it and it'll work. It's the closest thing I got to hardware related interface, for now (I still have a plan that some day I'll master both microcontroller hardware and software interfacing :) )

Anyway, I bought this Arduino Pro Mini and an USB to TTL module.

It just my luck that I bought that PL2303HX module and not Sparkfun breakout board or FTDI connector as my Arduino Pro Mini  layout is totally different; it has same dimension as original but the hole for pins is different (it has more hole than the original). The breakout board probably won't match and maybe useless (I don't konw about FTDI). So I think the pl2303hx usb to ttl usb-stc-isp is my best shot.

My luck, or probably not, it means my Arduino Pro mini is the clone, :)

I download Arduino IDE for my MacBook Air with OS X Yosemite. 

Install it, there's no problem as I changed my macbook setting on software installer permission (set to ANY)

Ran the IDE, use the example code, blinking LED.

compile it, OK

Upload it, this error message appear:

Arduino: 1.6.2 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini, ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)"

Sketch uses 1,068 bytes (3%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30,720 bytes.

Global variables use 11 bytes (0%) of dynamic memory, leaving 2,037 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2,048 bytes.

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00

Problem uploading to board.  See http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#upload for suggestions.

  This report would have more information with

  "Show verbose output during compilation"

  enabled in File > Preferences.

Install FTDI drivers, not work, obviously because I don't use it.8

try it in my Linux Debian machine (after install it via sudo apt-get install arduino command), success

back to mac, success too, strange

After several success and error upload, it turned out that my tx rx connection is not thigh enough, heheh...

The pictures below made after I secure the connection by permanently solder it. Not my actual plan because initially I prefer it in plug and play form.

Some note

Make sure that PL2303HX and Arduino have this connection right

Vcc to 5V

GND to GND

TX to RX

RX to TX

Before clicking upload button on IDE, we have to press and hold reset button on Arduino board and release about one second after it (or after console displaying message: 'sketch size...').

I've found new kind of error like this

Arduino: 1.6.2 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini, ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)"

Sketch uses 4,480 bytes (14%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30,720 bytes.

Global variables use 216 bytes (10%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1,832 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2,048 bytes.

avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device "/dev/cu.usbserial": Resource busy

ioctl("TIOCMGET"): Inappropriate ioctl for device

Problem uploading to board.  See http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#upload for suggestions.

  This report would have more information with

  "Show verbose output during compilation"

  enabled in File > Preferences.

It happened when I open serial monitor using Terminal apps on OS X and trying to upload the sketch while it running command

$ screen /dev/cu.usbserial

or 

$screen /dev/cu.HC-05-DevB

We have to close it first (not just detach) using command

$<ctrl>-a-\

and all is well, :)

DIY Guitar PreAmp (or Distortion StompBox) using TL 074

My string acoustic-electric guitar is borrowed and not back, leave my classic nylon string Yamaha guitar and an Ibanez clone with is by itself stand at the opposite pole of my need (rock/metal amplified sound or warm natural classic).

I need something between that and decide to install piezo on my classic nylon string. It pretty straightforward, just need few minutes. The problem is when i plugged it on my amp, it has almost no sound. I have to crank the volume knob all the way up to hear 'normal' level volume. It need pre-amplifier.


I uninstalled the piezzo (what I'm thinking at that moment, :D ) and using my Ibanez clone as testing guitar, with normal jack and all.

here the schematic

It Occured to me that this Pre-Amp could act as Distortion effect if we set the gain super high. I do it by add a resistor parallel to 100k. And the sound is suddenly very different. It's very clipped and distorted yet there's something missing (for me). I like soft clipping. So I plan to tinkering with some resistor value or add potentiometer to it

If we don't want distortion, just louder gain, we could always using two stage preamp (I don't know the proper name of it)